On the hillside of Ashikaga City in Japan’s Tochigi Prefecture, vines grow that carry more than just terroir. They carry a story of humanity, patience, and belief in meaningful work. COCO FARM & WINERY is a winery with an exceptional origin. Its roots go back to 1958, when a group of students with intellectual disabilities and their teacher, Noboru Kawada, planted the first vines on a steep Jurassic slope.
It all started as a school project. The students and their teacher created a vineyard with their own hands on the hillside. Their goal was not only to grow grapes, but to develop skills, dignity, and a sense of work ethic through contact with nature. In 1969, the social welfare facility Kokoromi Gakuen was established, and vineyard work continued as part of the residents’ daily lives.
The vision to deepen this activity by making wine from their own grapes soon faced legal obstacles. As a social welfare institution, they were not allowed to obtain a winemaking license. The solution came with the founding of COCO FARM & WINERY Ltd. in 1980. In 1984, the winery received its license and began producing its own wines.
In 1989, California wine consultant Bruce Gutlove accepted Kawada’s invitation to join the project. Together they developed a clear philosophy: the quality of wine must never be determined by who makes it. Not ability, but honest effort and care define the value of a wine.
This approach remains at the heart of everything – from respect for nature to appreciation for work in the vineyard and cellar, to the joy of craft. Today, the winery is led by Hideki Ishii (Head of Viticulture) and Toyoichiro Shibata (Head Winemaker), working alongside the community of Kokoromi Gakuen. Their wines have been featured at international events – from the G8 Summit in 2000 to official receptions of the Japanese government.
COCO FARM & WINERY cultivates about six hectares of vineyards on the hills of Ashikaga and Sano. The vines grow at altitudes between 50 and 200 meters, on slopes as steep as 42 degrees. Beneath a thin layer of soil lies a unique Jurassic bedrock – a mix of clastic rocks, basalt, chert, and mélanges. The vine roots penetrate deep into cracks in the rock, giving the wines a distinctive character.
Due to the steep terrain, all vineyard work must be done by hand – from protecting grape clusters and removing diseased leaves to individual care for each vine. A variety of grapes are grown here, including traditional Japanese varieties such as Muscat Bailey A, Riesling Lion, and Shokoshi, as well as international ones like Petit Manseng, Norton, Albariño, and Tannat. The winery also collaborates with growers from regions such as Hokkaido, Yamagata, Nagano, and Saitama, and uses only grapes grown entirely in Japan.
In the cellar, COCO FARM & WINERY relies on wild yeasts and naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria. The wine ferments at its own pace – some batches are bottled after just a few months, while others mature slowly through winter and into spring. Selected wines are aged in barrels stored in underground cellars carved into the hillside.
The winery’s ecological approach is present throughout the estate, from heating with pruned vine wood to hand-pumped water and composting of grape residues. Solar energy supplements the winery’s needs, allowing COCO FARM & WINERY to live in harmony with nature.
Founder Kawada left behind a guiding thought that continues to shape the winery:
“Put all your strength into something that will ultimately disappear.”
Wine, like food, eventually vanishes – but that is exactly why it deserves our full effort. At COCO FARM & WINERY, every bottle is the result of respect, patience, and humanity. The wines are not just beverages, but quiet witnesses to a philosophy that even seemingly fleeting things deserve the very best of us.
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